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weekly climbing trips
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murgdevil
Sand Kicker!


Joined: 28 Nov 2009
Posts: 1
Location: muscat

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:46 pm    Post subject: Mcdonalds View Reply with quote

Just thought i would throw this into the current arena, but, i thought that Mr Mcdonald did not want any of his climbs bolted without his express permission. This does not seem too be the case, also, a number of Trad routes have been bolted without consulting the many Trad climbers out here in Oman. Comments from the floor please....
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YAMAHA TX81Z


Last edited by murgdevil on Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Larry
Super active activist


Joined: 06 Sep 2006
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a totally different issue and you should start a new thread.

However, I really am curious, how many trad climbers are there? My guess is about 10? How many times would a route be climbed if it wasn't bolted? What is the point of having a route if no one climbs it? I'm not saying we should bolt all climbs but with the crap rock here is it a good idea to have routes that are unsafe due to lose rock? I mean in particular routes that are fairly easy like scorpion. I have climbed my share or trad routes so I know the appeal of climbing trad, but honestly the with the lose rock here is it really worth it?


As far as the established routes that have been bolted, I think that they were done for the good of climbing here and if Macdonald or others feel slighted so be it. If they want a temple raised in there honor well I can't help them out, I personally would rather put up routes that are climbed and appreciated.
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joggl
Super active activist


Joined: 23 Jan 2007
Posts: 64

PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Larry,

i think you are overdoing something there. In many places of the world people are used to ask the person who did the first ascent of a route on trad if they allow the bolting of that route. Most of the times the answer is "Yes". People also should respect a "no"! There is a great number of climbs in Oman still untouched by bolts. The biggest problem is how to get hold of the phone number or the e-mail adress of the one who did the first ascent.

Bolts are a good thing - but not everywhere!!!

Jakob
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Larry
Super active activist


Joined: 06 Sep 2006
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, there is lots of rock in Oman and no point fighting over it as we all need to establish more routes rather then fight over existing routes. I think the lines in question are some of the routes in wadi mai. I really can't think of another route that has been bolted that was a trad line. The was one route in Kubra that was bolted but the bottom was trad and that was bolted but the original feel of the route is still there:twisted: Anyway my opinion is that if it's a choice between a death route and a route that people will climb and enjoy I prefer that later, but I wouldn't bolt someones climb no mater how much I want to... (6c in Kubra anyone?)

I have to say that I am still very happy that mental recharge is bolted as other wise I would have never climbed it Laughing

I am still waiting to find nice trad lines in Oman most of them are pretty crappy rock/ lose scary rock. In my experience.
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joggl
Super active activist


Joined: 23 Jan 2007
Posts: 64

PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Larry,

letīs have a day on the Nizwa Towers. I would recommend the route "Orgasmus". My girlfriend said after the first ascent: Starting off nicely and getting always better towards the summit... Very Happy
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TonyR
Super active activist


Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 356
Location: Port, Portugal

PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:57 pm    Post subject: Debate... Reply with quote

Nice to see that the debate still rages on...

For what it is worth.. even though I am no longer there in person... The work done by all bolters over the recent years is fantastic and allows a lot of people to access the areas.. me included.. that I would have struggled to have enjoyed without their hard work..

As for Justins approach.. I think a level head needs to be applied... after all we know the īcompaniesīare out there doing this anyway... I believe that Justions offer was more about trying to help out the people who do not have the equipment or expertise to get out there by themselves... in a similar fashion to the way we all did a few years ago when introducing Salome and others to the sport...

Just my little $0.02 .......

In the meantime... I will sign up for the personal climbing guide experience if as well as holding a shade over me they carry a portable AC (aimed at me) and comes equipped with a cool drinks cabinet on their back... oh... and carries a quick-clip for those routes where you know you can finish but just dont have the guts to get that bolt..... Very Happy

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Will Try Anything... once... or twice if I didn't kill myself...
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