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weekly climbing trips
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Justin
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Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:45 pm    Post subject: weekly climbing trips Reply with quote

Anyone interested in Kuhbra canyon Thursday 1pm meet? Starting it as a weekly event, lots of new people interested, equipment and guides etc for hire for new climbers or anyone short of kit. lots of experienced climbers just wanting partners! Car share or if lots of interest a bus can be arranged. Justin 92944873 [/b]
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kimbill
Super active activist


Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 162

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Khubrah Canyon is a site that we equipped at our own expense and risk, to have a quiet and pleasant place to climb on our hard-earned weekends. It does not seem fair for you to start busing in people and making money off this site. If we decide that it is a problem and you turn the canyon into a weekend circus, we will strip the hangers off our routes and hammer in the bolts.

Kim and Bill
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Larry
Super active activist


Joined: 06 Sep 2006
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will wholeheartedly help bill do this. Who are you? I have lived in oman for a long time and I have never even met you and now you want to try to make money off of other work? This is not on!!!!!!!
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BenC
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Joined: 27 Mar 2008
Posts: 96
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you organise a burger van for some apres-climb snacks?

And maybe some techno house music to get us psyched for the redpoint!

I will pay for a guide as long as they climb next to me holding a sunshade over my head.

ps. Is this just a cunning plan to turn Khubrah into an all trad venue? - I LIKE IT!!
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Larry
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Joined: 06 Sep 2006
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well you had me going until you talked about being a trad guy, after all you are the guy that bought like a hundred bolts and hangers aren't you?

Anyways I'm all over charging admissions to the crag>
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BenC
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Joined: 27 Mar 2008
Posts: 96
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are just for lower off's so I dont have to leave my gear behind.

I tried bolting once and felt VERY DIRTY afterwards. Something to do with the pink spandex that you sport climbers insist on wearing.
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Larry
Super active activist


Joined: 06 Sep 2006
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only do sports so I can ware spandex! Cycling, climbing and surfing, there just aint enough socially acceptable place one can show their junk in public these days:)

Better hurry and lead that 6c a Kuhbra before "someone" comes and bolts it!

by the way rumor has it we will have Tue and Wed off here let me know if it happens for you as well. I will follow any trad line you want to lead by the way:)

L
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Duffers
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Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 28
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Justin is just trying to get people out climbing. He's trying to replicate the previous 'climbing club' that used to be hosted in Al Khuwair, but on rock instead. It can't all be about money because Rosie belayed me on Crack the Ripper last week and she didn't 'charge' me for it! She just kept asking me how it was going - which I believe is belayer's code for what are you actually doing?!!!!!!

Gaz
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Justin
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Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:46 pm    Post subject: climbing Reply with quote

There was no charge for climbing! plus no intention to be climbing Kuhbra every weekend, I have been climbing and working here for 4 years , sport being quite new as before all trad. So many people approach me and want to get into it plus allot of new climbers here now looking for climbing partners. When the bus was mentioned its a 9 seater and saves cars all leaving to the same site. Because I have easy access equipment ,some of which I have lent to you guys in the past, it means that people who dont have it can get into it. The only option in the past is to pay huge prices to tour companies for day trips. This summer I found it the same in Bc Canada and I had to spend allot of money on gear that my weight allowance would not allow in. My Fiance leads up to 6c and is desperate for partners who can climb with her. Im laid up with back surgery so wont be climbing for some months. There is no intention to ruin any sites or turn anywhere into a circus, just to make a regular meet in different locations, getting new people into climbing as Tony did when he was here, borrowing equipment off us on occasions when he needed it . Everyone went out DWS mid week and had an amazing time, plus no one had to expose there nice 5.10 or sportivas to salt water as other shoes were available on the boat, for 1 rial, no fortune.
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wolfstein
Sand Kicker!


Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Oman

PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am interested in the weekly climbing trips. Will you post where you are going each week here? Do you have anything planned for next week during the Eid break? I don't need transportation or gear. I would just like to know where people are going to be.
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Justin
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Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:32 am    Post subject: climbing Reply with quote

and I would like to add Kuhbra is close to where I live in comparison to other locations being a favorite for many years along with wadi mayha but for me thats the wrong end of town for a late afternoon climb. We have been using the old classic book climbing in Oman. Your topos on the forum are in my opinion excellent as i have struggled with many bad topos over the years in other countrys but if I teach anyone to lead it is generally done placing your own protection which is along with route finding a huge part of the essence of climbing. I have over the last 4 years got into sport as i have found i can confidently push my grade without having to really think about anything else! If you want to start charging for the use of your bolted climbs thats up to you to push but my belief is that climbing should be for all ages, nationality and not just for those with money. I am currently training a VERY promising Omani lad who I believe by the end of the season we could send for a few months to Plasi Brenin in North Wales, get qualified then this country has an opportunity to continue with there own outdoor instructors . We have spent allot of time on your routes but i have to teach him trad or he does not stand a chance in getting qualified in UK.
There are allot of people here, not tourists who really want to climb and need people with patience and gear plus those like Rosie and Simon (Rosie my fiance) who have gone to Kuhbra this morning....leaving a bad tempered me on my floor with a nackered back. I have been in the Industry for over 15 years and still learn off new people I meet.
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Larry
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Joined: 06 Sep 2006
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Justin we may have come down a bit hard on you, however,
look at this from our perspective, what do we have to gain for this? More people climbing at our crags, great there is lots of room, but people, like Bill and Kim have spent a lot of time and money developing climbs all over Oman. They have not asked anything in return. This is the alpine spirit where people set anchors and bolt climbs FOR THE COMMUNITY. Normally, in most parts of the world this is what guides do. It's one thing to help a new climber out and introduce them to the sport, that is not an issue, we all do that regularly. What you have suggested is a bit more mass market and I can only assume you intend to make money off of people and in so doing make money off of Bill and Kim et al.'s hard work. Not really fair is it? You say you have been here for 4 years and in the industry for many, if this is so then I should not need to explain this to you or why it rubs us the wrong way.

As far as renting stuff to people, I'm not sure that qualifies as helping the community. At the very least if you and your company (I can only guess which one it is:) want to "introduce" people to climbing then they should be at least willing to help us out to get gear to bolt safe routes. At present we all chip in and do the work and pay for the bolts ourselves(some more then others). If you feel the virtues of Trad climbing are so important then go take beginners on trad lines, problem solved.

Anyway, you and your friends are welcome to join us, we usually post on this forum where we are climbing. Others are welcome as well.

Wolfstien, We are climbing at La Gorgette this week on Monday and Tuesday and maybe Wed if we have any skin left, you are welcome to join us.

Peace out

Larry
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Justin
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Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 6:34 pm    Post subject: climbing Reply with quote

Thanks for the level headed reply Larry, I do understand where you are coming from, but please understand I do not earn extra money out of this for myself. I am on a monthly salary but desperately want a afternoon of the week which in some of our busy no time off jobs can plan a few hours of climbing.My job often meaning the weekend is the busiest time. Rosie, who does not work for the company, is happy be at a set meet location each week so that climbers can guarantee just to turn up and head off for a climb. I have to justify to my bosses why I am taking there equipment and the hire costs are really very little. I can not ethically hire ropes as I can not log them if i am not there but since the delivery of 60 and 70 meter ropes I am now hiring but only when myself or Rosie are on location. Yes this money goes back to the company but the need is just to cover the use.I have my own ropes as do most others but i am often approached by couples who dont. When in Squamish this summer I had buy a rope as its just too heavy to travel with.
I have usually when teaching lead used 5 0 clock slab, its small I know but its an old favourite of mine being so near Muscat and just great for people learning trad. Unfortunetly as it has been for a long while a bit of a mess, along with the poo...
I will look further into the forum, I have always loved your topos and your sport routes , if there is a way i can help raising money for your funds than i would love to help. Being an out door instructor generally means you will never be rich...but define rich.
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wolfstein
Sand Kicker!


Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Oman

PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the invite to La Gorgette Larry. Unfortunately, I have to work Tuesday and Wednesday, so I can't get up. I hope to do the Jebel Shams summit trail Sun. and Mon.

By the way, I assume that the climbing site there is no longer closed by the government. I read in an earlier post that the gov't had forbidden it for safety reasons. Is it open again? Also, what about the via ferrata? A friend told me that there is a sign saying the ferrata is closed, but that people are still doing it and local tour companies take groups. What's the story?

Wolf
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Justin
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Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Muscat

PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:07 pm    Post subject: climbing Reply with quote

Maybe someone will know about summit trail, I can tell you what I know about VF. Snake canyon VF was closed 2 seasons ago because of damage to one of the zip lines (no 3) plus loose bolts. All have been sorted now and two of the signs removed. Think there may still be 1 but ignore it. There was locks but they removed too now. There is though an issue with one small section of wire shortly after 1st zip line, wire visually slightly frade. Not a immediate problem but worth barring in mind and as I do protect that section with a rope. Other than that fill your boots and have fun.
Band qua ran (excuse my bad spelling)the coastal VF still has all signs in place. The first section is fine and safe, the cave section which comes immediately after the first offered exit out is a no go. Cable broken after a cyclone 2 years ago and still not fixed. VF is still fun there though, 2 years ago myself and a friend when assessing the damage to the wire watched a whale shark from 20 meters above, very nice.
VF at Jebal Shams is all good.
Hope this is of some help. Jus
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