joggl Active Activist
Joined: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 60
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:24 am Post subject: Wadi Mayh |
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Hi,
long time that I have not been climbing! Last time was Jan. 15th with Hamza.
On March 30th I was out again!!! Due to (as usual) a limited time budget we choose Wadi Mayh as our venue. We (Nasim and myself) started off with the easy line of "Something Solid". At the top pitch we did the chimney furthest to the right (instead of the one furthest to the left). Probably it was climbed before - but it looked just more interesting then the described version. (R.A. McDonald). The route is a nice easy outing. Some loose rock is found - but not too bad. On the first pitch there is a Cam of mine stuck. I think with the help of some explosives you could get it out...
On the same day we went over to the "Jezebel Buttress". We followed the description: Start directly at the Block at the foot of the wall. I cleaned some loose rock on the first pitch - that defenitely was a new start. We then took the easy ramp to join the original "Jezebel" and finished it to the top. A very nice route!
On the 1st of April we were back! We did the original start of Jezebel (very nice) and downclimbed the ramp to the belay of our "Variation start". Nasim led the crack through the roof up to the ledge and put up a brilliant belay. The slabs above are very good climbing! Trend over to the broken crack to the left for protection and imediately right over a little bulge to reach the corner with crack. After the little overhang at the end of this groove you are at the finish of "A Pleasure Deferred". We did not take this exit but climbed the huge overhang with large pockets (holes?) to the left. These are some excellent and surprisingly easy moves. I fixed a thread for protection.
This new route (the start from the 30th March and the exit of April 1st) is now called "Goodbye Oman" as Nasim left on the same day and I will leave soon for my summer break. 1st pitch: VI+; 2nd pitch: VI-; 3rd pitch: VI+; shade all afternoon.
Have fun repeating it!
Jakob |
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